For those of you who are handy and would like to learn how to install tile. I found these instructions on www.doityourself.com  It offers a wealth of information on a variety of home repair tasks. I hope you will find it helpful.

Tools

• Tape Measure
• Tile cutter
• Tile nippers
• Combination square
• Framing square
• Notched trowel
• Level
• Hammer
• Rubber mallet
• Floor scraper
• Caulking gun and caulk
• Chalk line
• Screwdriver or can opener
• Putty knife
• Utility knife
• Large sponge
• Grout mixing tray

Materials

• Tile
• Backer board
• Grout
• Roofing nails for backer board
• Mastic
• Spacers, if necessary
• Wood for battens, if necessary
• Grout sealer
• Grout fortifier

When you order your tile make sure you have accurate measurements of the space. A plan drawn out on graph paper can be very helpful. Order 5 - 8% more tile than you need to allow for cuts and damage. Often the color of glazing will vary shipment to shipment so if you have to go back later to get more tile you may find that the tile does not match exactly.

You'll also need to select the grout you'll need. Grout comes in different colors. If you decide to use a colored grout be sure that it won't stain the particular tile you've selected. A practical consideration for kitchens might be that a dark grout does not show dirt as easily as a white grout.

Surface Preparation:

1. Before you start, clear away anything that will get in the way or get wet like rugs, towels, glass bathroom shelves, and other accessories.
2. It's important to cover the drain with some tape so that debris won't fall down the drain and cause it to clog. Line the tub or shower with cardboard so as not to scratch them.
3. Remove the baseboards and door and window trims by using a pry bar.
4. Remove the faucet handles, escutcheon, shower heads, and spigots.
5. If the walls to be tiled are wall papered, that needs to be scraped off as the weight of the tile would pull it right off the walls.

Installing Backer Board:

1. If you are tiling in a bath or kitchen where there is high exposure to water, "green rock" or moisture resistant drywall should be applied over the studs as a basic wall surface.

2. Then, a mortar based backer board should be installed over the "greenrock" for the best tiling surface. Backer board was developed several years ago as a clean and simple method and compares in quality to the traditional but difficult route of doing a mortar bed. Backer board is made of a ceramic aggregate core that is coated with a thin Fiberglas mesh. It comes in 7/16"  thick sheets and is applied very similarly to hanging sheetrock. The height of the backer board will pretty much determine the height of the tile job. Once the tile has been laid, a line of quarter-round tiles will cover up the rough edge of the backer board.

3. If the tile is not going to go all the way to the ceiling as it often will not, make some level lay-out lines at the correct height so you have a line to run the backer board to. When laying out these lines make sure that there will be at least one row of tiles above the shower head. Use a level to establish an accurate level line all the way around the surface to be tiled. *Determine the height of the backer board by measuring carefully so that when the tiles are installed up the wall the spacing will be exact enough to eliminate any need to cut the tile along the top row. Also, check the level of the tub. If you are working around a tub or shower pan that is not level and cannot be adjusted, cut your backer board so that the cut edge is along the lip of the tub or shower pan and is at the same angle as the tub.

4. If your tub can be adjusted to be level, do it before you put up the backer board. If you are tiling around a shower* be sure that shower pan is correctly seated into position so that it is level and will drain correctly. *Creating a traditional mortar bed receptor for a shower base is better left to a professional. If you are doing a shower we recommend that you use a ready-made shower pan and seat it by following the manufacturer's recommended instructions.

5. Start with the backer board that goes on the back wall since it requires the fewest cuts.

6. Find and mark the location of the studs at the top and bottom of the wall. Later, when putting the backer board up you can snap a chalk line from point to point and know exactly where to nail. The backer board should be nailed to studs that are a minimum of 16" on center. If you are going to be using a floor and wall tile adhesive, install the backer board with the smooth side out. If using an epoxy or acrylic mortar, install with the textured side out. Also, if you're using epoxy or acrylic, be sure the room is well ventilated as the fumes can be toxic.

7. Cutting the backer board is easy. Make careful measurements. Then with a straight edge, score along your chalk line. The backer board will then crack along that scored line when it is bent, just like drywall. Then turn the piece over and score the back to cut through the mesh on the other side.
8. Use 1 1/2" galvanized roofing nails so that the nails penetrate into the studs adequately, nailing at 6" intervals around the edges and in the center over the studs. Longer nails will be needed if you must penetrate both the backer board and sheetrock. Nail heads should be flush with the surface, but not countersunk as it can cause the backer board to crack or break. Joints should be close together but not tight. Some backer board manufacturers require a nail and a large washer used at the edge for better holding. Check the manufacturers instructions.

9. Position a 1/4" spacer along the rim of the tub to hold the backer board up slightly. Once all the backer board is up, but before you lay the tile, fill the gap with silicone caulk to form a water tight seal.

10. When making the holes for the faucet and shower head, measure very accurately. Use the cardinal rule of building, Measure Twice, Cut Once.

11. Cut outs and holes for plumbing pipes and fixtures can be made by breaking through the Fiberglas mesh with the edge of the head of a conventional hammer. For neater cuts, they can be cut by using a saber saw with a carbide blade or a masonry hole saw attachment for a drill.

Double check your supplies. Once you roll up your sleeves and are ready to go to work you want to make sure that you have everything there that you are going to need-

Do the colors of the tile match? Some discrepancy can be attractive but that's a personal design choice. Sometimes its a good idea to pull tiles out of different boxes as you work so any slight discrepancy is integrated into the overall look of the job.

Do you have enough quarter round tile for the edges? Is the grout the right color?

Lay out-Horizontal Working Lines

1. It is critical that you make accurate lay out lines, so that you create a kind of a map to follow to assure an attractive quality job. All working lines should be bold and easy to see.
2. The horizontal line comes first. The way you do this depends on whether your tub or shower tray is level or not.

For a Level Tub or Shower Pan

If the tub is level to 1/8", measure and mark your horizontal line from the high point of the tub. An 1/8" difference will be easy to disguise with the grout. Measure up from the lip of the tub the width of the tile plus 1/8". If you are using standard 41/8" square tile, measure up 41/4" up and make a level line, using a level and a straight edge, along the back wall and the two end walls.

For an Out of Level Tub or Shower Tray

If the tub is not level to 1/8", mark your horizontal line from the low point. If you don't do this, the gap along the edge of the tub and tile will really show. Determine a level line just like for a level tub and run a batten along the bottom of the line so you have a level line to work off of. 

Note: You will then need to come back and custom cut the bottom row of tiles to fit.

Note: It is usually best to nail a straight wooden batten so that the top of the batten is set to the horizontal line. This provides an exactly level surface on which to begin laying the tile. After all the tile is laid, remove the batten and install the bottom row of tile.

Vertical Working Lines

1. To get the best results of your tile job, lay the tiles out by adjusting them so that the width of each tile on the two edges (border tiles) are the same and more than half a tile in width.

2. To do this, first locate the mid-point on the back wall and mark it on the horizontal line.

3. Then line up a row of loose tiles along the back of the tub, making sure that a joint matches up with the center mark. Whatever the distance is left at either end gives you the dimension of your border tiles. If the end tiles turn out to be larger than half a tile make the vertical center line all the way up the wall using a level and straight edge. The edge of the tile will be set to this line.

4. Now, if it turns out that an end tile is less than half the width of a tile move the center line exactly one half the width of a tile to the left or right. By making this adjustment you'll avoid having very narrow tiles on the end which are hard to cut and not too attractive.

5. The vertical lay out lines for the end walls are usually done after the back wall has been tiled. Just position the vertical working lines to minimize or eliminate the number of tiles to be cut and locate any cut tiles in the corner.

6. Determine where you are going to put the soap dish or any other special accessory tiles or towel rods and mark their locations. These will be installed last and usually take up the room of 1/2, 1 or 1 1/2 tiles. 
If your soap dish fits into the wall cut your hole before you spread the adhesive and position it to minimize or even eliminate the need to cut any tiles that will go around it.

For a tub or shower enclosure we recommend that you start with the back wall first unless you are also tiling the ceiling in which case you would start there.

Spreading the adhesive

1. Use the mastic that is waterproof so that it will hold up well under moisture conditions. This is very important. If you are applying wall tile in areas not exposed to water you can use a mastic that is not waterproof. All the rest of the tiling techniques still apply. Epoxy adhesives are also available but their drying times can be difficult to control. They are more appropriate in areas where high impact strength demands perhaps.
2. Before you apply the adhesive, carefully read the manufacturer's instructions for drying time so you don't spread any more than you can work with before it sets up; usually you want to spread enough mortar for 30-40 minutes work.
3. Spread the adhesives on the wall using the flat side of the trowel. Once you've applied adhesive on a wide area, flip the trowel around to the notched side, run it at a 45 degree angle to create wide grooves.

Note: The peak of the adhesive should be as thick or nearly as thick as the thickness of the tile. The valley will only show a thin film.

4. When applying the adhesive be careful not to completely obscure your working lines. Also, be sure to leave blank spaces for the installation of any accessories you want to install.

Laying the tile

1. Set the first tile along one side of the vertical and horizontal working lines.
When setting the tile use a gentle twisting motion but don't slide it into place as you could move a lot of the adhesive to one side.

2. If you are working with a batten make sure that the tiles are firmly seated on it.

3. Without the batten make sure to line the top edge of the tile along the horizontal line. Use little shims like these underneath the tiles along the lip of the tub to hold the tile up accurately along the line.

4. Lay the tiles row by row, always keeping a watchful eye for correct alignment along the working lines.

5. Tap them with a rubber mallet and a block of padded wood as you go.

Spacing the tile

For spacing, most standard 4 1/8' square tiles have small lugs on the sides which act as spacers and then are later covered by the grout. If your tiles do not, you can use finish nails for small grout lines and for larger grout lines use small molded spacers made for this purpose.

Cutting Tile-Straight cuts

1. As you tile into the corners you'll need to be cuffing tile as you go.
2. Measure accurately with a tape measure.
3. Most tile dealers can lend you a simple tile cutter. You can also rent a wet saw from your local equipment rental center.

When cutting with a non-power tile cutter, score the tile only once. Multiple scores will only dull the blade and create jagged edges on the tile. Place the breaking wings, located at the bottom of the handle, about 1/2" from either edge of the tile and slowly but firmly press down on the handle until the wings break the tile. If needed, smooth any rough edges with a tile sander. Cutting Shapes

Whenever you are cutting any tiles be sure to allow for the 1/8' grout line when getting your measurements.

Note: Cut tiles to fit around pipes and faucet after all the field tiles are laid. Here are a few different ways to make more complicated cuts:

A) With tile nippers cut tiles to irregular shapes. Scoring cutoff line with a micro cutter helps. You might need to cut a tile in two so that the tile wraps around the plumbing.

B) With a wet tile saw (rented from your local equipment rental center) you can cut the tile with a series of cuts and then go over it with the blade to smooth it out.

If you are making a lot of complicated cuts it may be worth it to rent a diamond cut-off wheel like this at an equipment rental center or your tile dealer.

You can also use a saber saw with a carbide blade or, for small holes for plumbing pipes, you can use a tile cuffing attachment for your drill.

Installing The Trim Tiles:

All the edges of the tiled area need to be finished off with quarter round edge and corner pieces. Simply butter the adhesive on the back of the tile and stick onto the wall the correct position.

Final Adjustments:

Once you've laid the tiles and are waiting for the adhesive to set make any adjustments needed for correct alignment. Check to see if the tiles are fully set by trying to pull up a tile.

Clean off any adhesive that got left behind on the face of the tile and allow the adhesive to dry for 24 to 48 hours depending on the adhesive you used. Also, while the adhesive is drying remove any spacers that you used.

To prevent some cement based grout from drying prematurely, wash white-bodied and soft red-bodied tiles before grouting. These types of tiles tend to be a lot more porous and can draw liquid from the grout and make it weak.

For standard 41/8' tiles where the joints are very narrow use a non-sanded grout. For any other grout joints with other types of tiles use a sanded grout which hold up better when the grout lines are wider.

The easiest way to apply grout is with a rubber-faced float or a squeegee, although you can do it with your finger and a large sponge. An old toothbrush is handy too to help work the grout into the joints.

It is best to mix the tile with a 50/50 mixture of water and grout fortifier. It will make a more watertight seal.

The following are the steps in applying grout:

 1. Apply grout to the surface of the tile, spreading it with the float or squeegee and forcing it into the joints. It is critical that the joints be completely filled so that there are no bubbles or gaps.

2. Scrape the excess grout off by wiping diagonally across the tiles with your float or squeegee

3. With a cleaned out sponge washed out in clear water and wipe away any remaining grout. Wipe the grout away as you go. Grout an area, then wipe it down. Don't wait until you've grouted the entire area. Continue to rinse and wring out the sponge until the joints are smooth and level with the tiles.

4. Let the tiles dry out. After about 30 minutes a hazy grout film will appear. Wipe that away with a soft cloth. You can use the end of a toothbrush handle to tool the joints and clean the intersections.

Installing Soap Dish and Other Accessories:

1. After you have laid your field tiles and the adhesive has dried, you can go ahead and install the soap dish and the towel rack.

Often, the back side of ceramic soap dish and towel rod accessories there are small holes. These holes should not be covered up in the course of buttering the adhesive on the back as condensation can build up inside of them and cause them to pop off the wall.

Finishing Touches - Sealing the Grout

1 . Run a bead of silicone caulk around the edge of the tub where the tile meets it along the top and the base at the floor level. Also, caulk around the plumbing pipes and behind the rims of the soap dish and any towel rods.

After the grout has completely dried and cured you'll want to seal the grout. For moisture areas use a silicone based sealer that will hold up well. You should wait between 3 days and 2 weeks before you apply the sealer so read the manufacturer's label on the grout and sealer to be sure of the correct dry time.

Most Common Mistakes

1. Not using the proper backing or underlayment as a base for the tile or not sealing the joints of the backing well.
2. Not laying out the tile correctly, thereby ending up with very thin tiles on the ends of the rows.
3. Poor alignment of tiles so the job looks sloppy and out of level.
4. Not using water-proof mastic when applying tile in moisture conditions.
5. Poor adhesion of tiles to the mastic so the tiles can pull away from the wall.
6. Not applying silicone caulk around the lip of the tub or shower.
7. Not allowing mastic to dry long enough before applying the grout.
8. Not wiping the grout off before it sets up, making it a much tougher job of scraping the grout off the face of the tile.
9. Not sealing the grout with a silicone sealer a few days after the grout has had time to cure.

To order your custom hand-painted ceramic tile murals use the form on the Contact Us Page or call us at (954) 536-9343. You may also use this form for comments, or questions not addressed on the Frequently Asked Questions page. You may also e-mail me at kltilemurals@att.net